Spice Island

The fast ferry from mainland Tanzania to Zanzibar, the "Spice Island." 

A hearty "jambo," as they say in Swahili.  It means "hi" or "hello."  This simple greeting has been the beginning of many a conversation with locals and internationals alike here in Stone Town, the bustling main city on Zanzibar Island.

Located off the coast of East Africa, below the equator.

Stone Town harbor, Zanzibar Island.

Walkway along the harbor -- a pleasant place to stroll.

As far as beaches, Zanzibar has some real beauties.  But I tend to prefer ports with vessels coming and going, lighthouses, fish markets, restaurants, trade houses, and the like.  And Stone Town is a good example of why (goes back to my days in the sea service).

The city center is a labyrinth of alleyways, odd markets and darting motor bikes -- much of it suitable for a chase scene in a Bond or a Bourne movie.  It's a mix of African, Indian, and Arab cultures, with influences from all melded into the cuisine.  Crumbling coral walls are accented by carved wooden doors with brass studs.  Walk the winding streets and the place emanates of the exotic.

Typical street in Stone Town.

Known for its ornate doors.

Not much happening during the mid-day heat.

And the smells -- the place is a veritable feast for the senses.  It's known as the Spice Island and they influence much of life here.  My hotel was called the Spice Palace (see photo below).  I ate at various spice-themed restaurants, browsed spice stalls and shops, etc.  In addition, almost all tourists visit a spice farm, and I did as well.

One steamy morning, a guide led me through an upland plantation, pausing at different groves and cultivations.  He explained the planting, harvesting and uses of nutmeg, cloves, cardamon, lemon grass, vanilla and many more.  I wished that I'd had a recorder because the info was so overwhelming!

Our guide with fresh-cut nutmeg.  Whew, was it fragrant!

Another stop along the tour.

"Don't step on these," we were warned -- fire ants!

So much more that I could say about this place -- the last operating slave market in the world, for instance.  I took a tour and it opened my eyes to a lot, a lot that I had never heard in the U.S.

By the way, we're not the the only country that had election year strife.  They had an election here in Tanzania/Zanzibar last Tues., Oct. 27.  Authorities were expecting demonstrations, even riots; soldiers in red berets and carrying AK rifles were patrolling  the streets.

Tourists were rounded up, ordered into their hotels.  We were hunkered there the entire day with doors closed.  From a terrace restaurant three stories up, we watched tense situations build and then dissipate in the square down below. 

Reports are that people were shot at the north end of the island; others worked over with clubs here and there.  In the wake of this, to prevent demonstrators further organizing, the government pulled the plug on the Internet.  So that was the last real news the rest of my time there.   

My hotel -- doors were shut up and locked election day, all guests inside.

Maybe you've heard of the movie "The Year Of Living Dangerously".  Well, that was the Day Of Living Dangerously.  The next morning, like someone flicked a giant switch, things pretty much were back to normal.

(It reminded me of being in Bangkok some years ago during a coup, when the government there came under siege.  But that, as they say, is another story.)

Beach at Paje, on the east coast of Zanzibar.

More of Paje beach, Indian Ocean in the background.

Stone Town harbor at dusk.

At any rate, so much for Zanzibar Island.  On to the interior of Tanzania now to meet the famous Maasai tribe and view the tallest mountain in Africa -- Mt. Kilimanjaro.  And hopefully to view some of the wildlife so renowned in that part of Africa.

Next stop, safari country.

Covid Update:  "No Covid on the island, boss.  No Covid," as one taxi driver put it.  Whether accurate or not, it's a typical response when I inquire of locals on the subject.  I would say, after a week here, the virus just isn't of concern on Zanzibar.  At least not at present.

Following is the flag of Tanzania/Zanzibar; they're both kind of, more or less, the same country.  I love the colors...

END